Free sheet music for classical guitar -
Delcamp.org Publications -
- Amateur luthier
- Posts: 148
- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2007 10:43 am
- Location: South Africa
- Amateur luthier
- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:11 pm
- Location: Lorette, Manitoba, Canada
I have heard of some people preferring low frets. I don't know for me. I have problems with left hand strength and sometimes its a real effort to press the stings down hard enough for clean playing. Low frets would compound that. High frets would seem to offer an advantage as there is more room to work with.
Best of luck,
- Posts: 985
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2007 4:11 pm
- Location: Omaha, Nebraska
- Low Frets: it is difficult to achieve good vibrato (little room to press the strings down; unless you pull the strings sideway).
- High Frets: good vibrato but big problem with glissando (to be proper, it is portamento) because the LH fingers can get caught if the frets are too high.
So Medium Fret Height works well for me.
2001 GV Rubio Solista 650-mm
Tall frets ONLY makes sense on a classical guitar with a really messed up fretboard because they can be filed down further to correct a problem like a hump at the 12th fret, but then they aren't tall any more.
Gibson came up with jumbo frets many years ago and all the electric guitar slingers loved them. Many people wondered why they called them frettless wonders. The frets were huge in height AND width but after installation the tops were filled off and pollished which gave the guitarist a wide flat fret top so bending strings (some electric guitarists bend strings a lot) felt great and the strings sustain would be enhanced.
Again, the frets were very tall but most of the height got filed off.
The fretwire I use for classic guitars is a normal height (about .050 tall) but when levelling the frets I take about another .010 to .015 off so they end up about .035 tall. This is shorter than normal and you can feel the difference. If the guitar has a good neck and everything else is set up right there are NO issues with buzzing. The action can be lowered at both nut and saddle ends by about .010 to .020 which isn't very much but every little bit helps and it is just enough so I get less squeek when changing positions from a barred chord.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: bacsidoan, CommonCrawl [Bot], Dyingsea, Euan Hannah, Fawkes, Feynman, JayGuitar, khayes, Manuel Liria Romero, Tim Buckley, Tomcatluc, vijai, Waddy Thomson and 30 guests