I've used all sorts of brands of cabinet scraper and ways of sharpening them (turning a burr) and have a pretty foolproof method now. First thing, is the metal the scraper is made of. I've heard all sorts of stories about using cut up old saw blades, extra hard steel etc. but what really seems to matter is having a scraper where the metal is fairly soft, but work hardens really quickly. If the metal starts out hard, there is no way you will easily turn a burr on it as it will be harder than the tool you try to do this with. So by far the best brand of scraper to use is Sandvik/Bahco depending on what brand name they use in your part of the world.
Assuming the scraper has been used, to re-sharpen, the first thing to do is to remove the old work-hardened edge. This is done with a medium cut file. When you start filing, the scraper metal is so hard that the file has a tendency to skim over it. File that hard surface away until you reach soft metal (you can tell by the feel of the filing) then change to a fine file. File the scraper to a square, smooth edge. De-burr the scraper by rubbing both flat faces on a fine honing stone. You now have a soft metal, reasonably polished, square edge on your scraper, which is soft enough to turn a burr on, but the metal work hardens as you do this to produce an edge that is almost as hard as a file. My tool of choice for creating the burr is the Veritas variable burnishing tool. Use as per the instructions that come with it (or immediately with an angle set) and you will get a really good edge.
The success if this technique is entirely dependant on the quality of the steel the scraper is made from and the only brand that works for me (having tried many) is the Sandvik/Bahco brand. With a good edge, your scraper shavings should look much like plane shavings.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. Log on to the forum and post a few messages to get permission to view these files.