This is a great approach, you can better isolate the issues. I recently had the string spacing on my guitar reduced at the nut and will not need to change the saddle spacing, the effect of the nut spacing is felt for several frets of the fretboard.Douglass Scott wrote:Don't bother changing the saddle yet, sounds like the nut is more urgent for you. And the low tension strings shouldn't be a problem either.
If you are pleased with the new nut and want to try wider string spacing at the saddle, have a saddle made with notches in it to hold the strings at the new spacing - like 57 or 57.5mm for example. This saddle can also be used to slightly shift the strings away from one side of the fingerboard if needed to keep them from slipping off that edge. Just like can be done with a nut. Make sense?
After talking to Mr. Partyka I would like to say that I was wrong in my guess about the way of fixing the neck; yes, it is the bolt-on neck. And the bridge is a little larger then the first one, it is placed in the same area, but the groove for the saddle is carved a little further measuring from the head/top of the instrument. Thank you again for your kind words and interest in details of this so good for me guitar !Intune wrote:That's great news, Jacek, and the best possible outcome. Yes, it speaks volumes about Mr. Partyka's committment to his instruments. I hope you enjoy playing your "new" guitar for many years to come.
A few quick questions about the work done on your instrument: 1) Does your guitar have a bolt-on neck, which would make the job of replacing it a bit easier? 2) You mention that a new bridge was also put on. Was the position of the bridge on the soundboard moved as part of the process of changing the string length, or is the new bridge in the same place as the old?
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