You could still fix the one you've got though you'll need to pull out the frets that are pushing out the binding and the edge of the board like that. You then file the tang off so that it will fit back without impacting on the binding, but of course repair the wood before re fitting.
Pulling out frets is usually what sorts out the amateur from the pro. What you need is a set of very fine jawed electrical end nippers or buy one from a luthiers supply but I think electrical ones are better and cheaper.
Carefully squeeze these very thin jaws in at one end and then work across without any pulling motion. This means that the jaws support the wood as they slightly lift the fret, reducing the tearout. Then go back and carefully rock the tool to lift the fret further out. Once one end is clear the fret will come out more easily. If you get some tearout which is very likely, particularly with ebony, don't sweep it away. Leave it in place and carefully push it back down flat, and before you do the next fret, run a line of that thin CA along each side of the slot. Do not sand this now. Wait till it's dry. If you are doing the whole lot, then sand it all at once with a sanding board that you prepared earlier. A good size for this is 10" by 2", using something nice and hard like rock maple, machined perfectly flat on the electric planer[the belt sander is not quite good enough for this], and then with 100grit freecut[the white stuff] applied with double sided tape.
If only doing more localized areas then use a smaller block such as 2"by2".
Because of that binding on the edge of the fingerboard there is a complication with filling the fret slots with glue and dust. You can either make up a tool for digging this out[rather like a saw tooth that can be made out of an old pen knife by filing to slightly thinner than the slot for about double the slot depth, and then with a round file such as a chainsaw file take a radius out of the end to create a hook with a very fine chisel end][I'll post a photo of this later],or simply use a fretslot saw and cut through the binding like an unbound board. This is easier but looks a bit unprofessional.
I'll go into the rest if you choose this route but if you are going to replace it anyway:
I noticed from the photo that the soundboard is cracked under the end of the fingerboard. You should get a mirror in there to see how far that crack goes, probably all the way to the headblock. This will have to be repaired too if you take the fingerboard off. It will open up more once the fingerboard comes off and will need a fillet. This would also indicate that the soundboard was put together with high humidity. Have a good look at the rest of it, particularly around the edges of the bridge and around the outer edges of the lower bout. Check inside with a mirror also. If there is any cracking beginning anywhere else then I would definitely be doing the superglue job rather than the new board which is very much more work.
By the way if you email Stew Mac I think you'll find they sell prefretted boards. I know at least one luthier who uses them on all his guitars for quite a time saving but it was a few years ago and perhaps they no longer do it.